CoronaCactus Nursery Article - In-Ground Planting

No matter where you live there are at least some plants that can go outside in a garden or raised bed. Here in So. California the climate is quite favorable for almost any C&S plant. Which is one reason we�ve loaded our garden with plants.

In the colder, northern climates a raised bed is essential. These require extremely well draining soil and a specialized mix. Raised beds should start at at least 12 inches high.

In warmer, southern climates raised beds are not really needed, but of course, can be used. Will depend on your area�s annual rainfall. Amended soil is still needed.

In-ground plants usually grow much faster and will have larger root runs. Which is good for those larger species in your collection which are not easily grown to a large size in a pot.

There are no rules when building your garden, so do whatever pleases you. However, it�s a good idea to know something about each plant you use, as their water and sun requirements may differ. Geographic habitat location of the plants will give you a clue as to what conditions suit them best and where they should be placed. Mixing in other types of plants will not only provide a pleasing visual effect, but can be used as *nurse plants* for those types that require some filtered light and some heat reduction.

More photos will be added shortly.

Prepared soil. Tilled and amended

1. Preparation

This article is not about landscape design we�ll leave that part up to your personal tastes and creativity. We will add a few of our ideas, but mainly explain some key elements for healthy plants grown in the ground.

Once you have your area mapped out and an idea of what plants will go where, it�s time to start!

First thing we do is put down a liquid or granule weed killer. We then wait up to 3 weeks before even touching anything. Some weed killers require this wait as they can damage plants if they are planted right away. Plus it gives us a chance to make sure no weeds are going to come back and reapply the weed killer if needed.

Another option is to use a weed blocker material. We never have so we can�t really comment on its use or effectiveness. We also feel it may inhibit some plants from growing to their potential. If weeds can�t get through, how are the plants supposed to grow through it? As a lot of C&S plants have roots/shoots/etc. that travel underground and pop up a little distance away from the plant. These are some of our thoughts on why we decided not to use it.

NOTE: Weeds are relentless and will eventually come back no matter what. You will be pulling weeds! However, omitting this step will certainly cause excessive weed problems down the line. The last thing you need is a thicket of weeds right in the middle of a cluster of a very spiney cactus!

A small gas powered tiller will most certainly help if your area is a large one. These can be purchased or rented. Of course, the old shovel and elbow grease will work just as well.

Start by tilling the entire area to at least 12� deep, more if possible. Read all safety instructions that come with the tiller and use extreme caution when working the machine.

Various sized/textured rocks add a nice touch and can be placed around as needed. Used to build up raised portions, add elevation changes and make it look a little more natural.

We recommend getting started as early as possible when the growing season starts, especially for the northern climate growers. Depending on where the plants were kept, acclimating them to full sun is essential. Would hate to plant out a dozen or more nice plants to have them all get sun burnt the following week. Shade cloth/window screen can be used to cover the plants to help them acclimate.

2. Amending the soil

So now the area is tilled and the soil is fresh and loose. Now it�s time to add some ingredients to help the plants along. There are many ways and ingredients to use but we�ll discuss what we did and you can make any changes to it as you see fit.

First we add some bagged top soil and get back on the tiller to mix it all in. We may add more to raise certain parts of the garden (design wise) or we�ll add garden soil from other parts of the property.

Once that is all mixed in, we add pumice, gravel, DG (decomposed granite) in assorted sizes. There�s no real rhyme or reason as to what to use. Just that the soil has a good amount of assorted sized gravel and won�t compact into a brick later down the line. Then back again with the tiller to mix it all in.

Our final stage is to add more DG. It�s the same stuff we used in the previous step, but instead of small chunks, its consistency is more like coarse sand. Mix it for the last time with the tiller.

We amend in stages as we feel the ingredients get mixed in better and we are able to control the dispersion of each ingredient better.

Plants set out in pots to get a feel of where to place them

3. Planting

Ok, so now that you�re burnt out from the tiller or shovel, it�s time to relax a little. This is a good time to map out your garden design. You�ve thought of hundreds of different placement ideas and used up a full note pad and now have your final design ready to go.

We will place the plants (still in their pots) around to figure the best arrangement of placement. We may leave them there for a week or so to see how they sit with our eye and then get down to business.

Using a small hand trowel dig a hole twice as deep as needed. We then add some extra grit/pumice directly in the hole for added drainage below the roots. The extra grit/pumice is mixed in a small tub before starting and then using a scoop to add it to the dug holes.

Pull the plant from its pot, tease out the roots and remove as much soil as possible. Remember to place the plant for, not only its best visual position, but it�s best growing position (under larger nurse plants, under trees, overhangs, etc. if it can�t take the direct sun) and to orient the plant to put its best side out. Stick em in the hole and add soil as you would when potting. We suggest (as with potting) to leave about 1 to 1.5� of space between the root ball and the stem. This will allow space for a top dressing gravel to keep the stem from being in constant contact with the soil and a chance for it to rot.

Remember to give the plants some elbow room. Some plants don�t branch out or get very big. These aren�t too much of a problem, but others that do get big and grow fast, make sure they have the room around them to thrive. In-ground plants will grow faster than if grown in a pot. Once the plants are established and actively growing, they can get crowed pretty quickly. Especially Opuntias!

4. Last minute changes

After being on your hands and knees for a few hours, take a step back and see how the layout is working. Now is the time to tweak your ideas, while the plants are still loosely planted and before they become established.

Changes have been made, some plants removed, some added, some just moved around and the design is now just the way you want it. Good job! Time to hit that lawn chair for some much needed R&R with your favorite beverage.

Adding some final rocks around or other trinkets like dead cholla wood sticks, a wagon wheel or�..the ever popular garden gnome J Add whatever you like, it�s YOUR garden!

All plants have been planted and are now awaiting establishment before adding the top dressing

5. Letting the plants get established / Adding a top dressing

We suggest waiting about 2-3 weeks as the plants get established before adding any type of gravel or top dressing or watering them. By waiting, you�ll see if any of those pesky weeds come back and gives you a chance to get rid of them early. You also want to give them at least one good watering before adding any top dressing. This helps compact the soil a little bit and solidifies the plants in place.

Once you�re happy the weeds are under control and the plants are firmly in place, you can go ahead and add your top dressing. We suggest gravel/rocks/grit, etc. This can be placed just around the base of each plant or throughout the garden. Absolutely no mulch! Or anything that will retain moisture. Using mulch is the exact opposite of what you are trying to accomplish with the gravel dressing. In that you want to keep the upper moisture away from the plant stem and down at the roots where it�s needed. The mulch will stay wet for too long and certainly cause rot problems down the line. Save the mulch for your tropicals.

We like to mix up the top dressing colors, textures and sizes for a different visual impact. We�ve used several types and like the different looks they provide. Offers some variety and not just the same look throughout the garden. A different dressing can differentiate the sections of your garden. (i.e. South American, Mexican, Southwestern USA) Using a top dressing similar in color and texture to the places where the plants grow naturally can add a nice visual appeal.

Top dressing added for that finishing touch.

6. Enjoy your new C&S garden!

After all that hard work, it�s time to sit back and enjoy your garden. For us, it�s a very relaxing experience and we get a lot of joy just walking around and looking at the plants. We find it�s a different kind of experience than with potted plants. We also like the natural look. We aren�t fanatical about growing show plants in the ground. The plants will get some damage. Either from the weather or by insects/critters. It�s all part of the game and we accept that. Of course we do our best to minimize this. But if it happens, it happens and we deal with it.

Take pictures! We�d love to see your gardens!

7. Raised beds

Raised beds are done in pretty much the same fashion. The main difference is that you�ll need to add ALL the soil. Not just mix up what�s already there. These are mainly used in the northern climate regions where the cooler temperatures and rain are. Also essential to the plants when winter hits. Raised bed cold hardy gardens need the most amount of drainage you can provide. Plants that grow in habitat areas with snow and freezing temperatures require a very free draining mix so they do not sit there cold and wet for long periods of time. Don�t get discouraged if some plants do succumb to the inevitable, it�s going to happen. The best offense is a good defense. Propagating spare plants in pots as a backup is common practice for growers of cold hardy plants.

There are several different ways to build the raised bed borders.

- Railway ties

- Pressure treated lumber

- Rocks / Boulders

- Bricks / Cinder blocks

Whichever way you choose, try to orient the plants in the bed to all face south. This will allow for the most amount of sun during the day. Also be aware of any trees or structures that may shade the bed area. Remember the sun line changes from winter to summer. The bed should be raised a minimum of 12� high. You can increase the height by digging a little deeper and adding a thick 6� layer of gravel. Then add your amended soil. Remember to leave some drain holes in between the rocks/wood you used for the bed borders, as this will help drain some water out of the beds and not just down into the ground below them. It�s also a good idea to slope the bed by having the backside 8-12inches higher for added rain runoff during heavy downpours.

The reason for raising the beds is to avoid any frozen ground in winter and to drain away all that water as the snow melts and when it rains during the summer. These are the 2 main factors that kill C&S plants -Cold and wet.

Feb 2008

March 2008

Feb 2008

June 2007

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March 2008

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Contact

Jen and Darryl

Email: [email protected]

Mammillaria guelzowiana

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